nice...
http://www.phpbbplanet.com/hondaelite250ow/index.php?mforum=hondaelite250ow
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
How to: remove the rear fender
To remove the rear fender, you will want to remove the rear body panels first. If you are trying to change the rear tire, you will want to do this step also. I thought about trying to skip some of the steps in the service manual, but I would not have been able to continue.
So, here is how you remove the rear fender on our Elite 250:
1. There are three bolts: one on either side of the fender and one near the air cleaner cover. Figures 1 and 2 show the bolts on the sides of the fender. Figure 3 shows the bolt by the air cleaner cover.
Figure 1:
Figure 2:
Figure 3:
2. I always recommend that you replace the bolts in locations where you removed them. This may keep you from losing them. Figure 4 is an example:
Figure 4:
3. Once all the bolts are removed, you can start to work the fender free from the bike. It does take a little bit of wiggling, but it should easy to remove.
So, here is how you remove the rear fender on our Elite 250:
1. There are three bolts: one on either side of the fender and one near the air cleaner cover. Figures 1 and 2 show the bolts on the sides of the fender. Figure 3 shows the bolt by the air cleaner cover.
Figure 1:
 |
| Right Side |
Figure 2:
 |
| Left side |
Figure 3:
 |
| Air cleaner; bolt |
Figure 4:
 |
| Shows bolt replaced |
3. Once all the bolts are removed, you can start to work the fender free from the bike. It does take a little bit of wiggling, but it should easy to remove.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
How to: remove the rear body panels
Another must for Elite owners who need to change the rear tire...this was much easier than I thought it would be. There are a number of different screws and bolts, but anything that requires a socket for this one will need a 10mm one.
1. Re move the rear protector. There is a screw right in the middle of it (Figure #1). Once you remove the screw, remove the plate. Although not shown, I reinstalled the screw to its place once i had removed the plate (Figure #2).
Figure #1:
Figure #3:
Figure #4:
3. Remove the bolts. They can be found under the rear protector. Figure #5 shows that I was using a screwdriver, but a 10mm socket will work for both bolts. Figure #6 shows me using a socket.
Figure #5:
Figure #6:
4. Once the screws have been removed, you should be able to work the body panels off. They slide off over the passenger foot rests.
1. Re move the rear protector. There is a screw right in the middle of it (Figure #1). Once you remove the screw, remove the plate. Although not shown, I reinstalled the screw to its place once i had removed the plate (Figure #2).
Figure #1:
 |
| Shows with screw |
Figure #2:
 |
| Plate removed without screw |
2. Open the seat. There are two screws to remove (on my 1988). One is located with the passenger foot rests...you will have to fold them down to to see them (Figure #3). The second is located just under the luggage rack (it's a big one; Figure #4).
 |
| Shown with passenger foot rest folded down |
Figure #4:
 |
| Big screw...no pun intended. |
3. Remove the bolts. They can be found under the rear protector. Figure #5 shows that I was using a screwdriver, but a 10mm socket will work for both bolts. Figure #6 shows me using a socket.
Figure #5:
 |
| Using a screwdriver is okay...don't forget the OJ |
Figure #6:
 |
| 10mm scoket works best |
4. Once the screws have been removed, you should be able to work the body panels off. They slide off over the passenger foot rests.
5. Repeat for the other panel, if you have not already removed it.
6. Now that the panels are removed, there is one one more plate to remove (show in Figure #7).
Figure #7:
 |
| Both panels removed |
7. The final plate is held in place by the bolts, so removing it should be as easy as working it out from underneath the luggage rack (shown in Figure #8).
Figure #8:
8. Your scoot should now look like this (from the back):
9. I think it is a good idea to return the screws / bolts to their original location so you don't lose them. Here are a few reminders of where they go:
 |
| Bolts |
 |
| Screw (luggage rack) |
 |
| Screw (foot rest) |
Now that you have the panels removed, you can move on to do other things such as remove the muflfler, fender, and/ or shock absorber.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
How to: remove the front tire
Flat tires have a way of getting your attention. Tires that won't maintain pressure are even more dangerous as you don't know they are a problem. I recently had a flat rear tire, and I decided to check the front tire.
Alas, I ended up replacing them both, and here is how I removed the front from my Elite CH 250. I have the service manual, and I suggest that you get a copy if you don't have one.
1. Loosen the brake adjuster and remove the brake cable from the brake arm:
Essentially, you will need to squeeze the brake caliper slightly and unscrew the brake adjuster. Figure #1 shows the parts in question, and Figure #2 shows the brake adjuster reassembled on the brake cable.
Figure #1:
Figure #2:
2. Remove the set screw for the speedometer cable and disconnect the speedometer cable:
This sets screw holds the speedometer cable in place. You can remove it completely but don't lose it. You will need it later.
Figure #3:
3. Remove the brake cable completely from the brake housing by removing the adjuster, pulling it from from the housing, and replacing the adjuster. Now disconnect the speedometer cable.
Figure #4:
4. Remove the front brake torque link armbolt (12mm). Figure #5 shows the bolt in place, and Figure #6 shows the bolt removed.
Figure #5:
Figure #6:
5. Remove the axle nut (16mm) from the axle. It can be seen in Figure #6 in the middle/left of the picture.
6. Remove the front axle from the opposite side, and the front tire will now be free. You should now have several pieces (axle, axle nut, tire (figure #7), brake housing and a few other parts (figure #8)).
Figure #7:
Figure #8:
Keep in mind the order that things come apart. You will need to replace all of this once you have the new tire mounted.
Alas, I ended up replacing them both, and here is how I removed the front from my Elite CH 250. I have the service manual, and I suggest that you get a copy if you don't have one.
1. Loosen the brake adjuster and remove the brake cable from the brake arm:
Essentially, you will need to squeeze the brake caliper slightly and unscrew the brake adjuster. Figure #1 shows the parts in question, and Figure #2 shows the brake adjuster reassembled on the brake cable.
Figure #1:
Figure #2:
2. Remove the set screw for the speedometer cable and disconnect the speedometer cable:
This sets screw holds the speedometer cable in place. You can remove it completely but don't lose it. You will need it later.
Figure #3:
3. Remove the brake cable completely from the brake housing by removing the adjuster, pulling it from from the housing, and replacing the adjuster. Now disconnect the speedometer cable.
Figure #4:
4. Remove the front brake torque link armbolt (12mm). Figure #5 shows the bolt in place, and Figure #6 shows the bolt removed.
Figure #5:
Figure #6:
5. Remove the axle nut (16mm) from the axle. It can be seen in Figure #6 in the middle/left of the picture.
6. Remove the front axle from the opposite side, and the front tire will now be free. You should now have several pieces (axle, axle nut, tire (figure #7), brake housing and a few other parts (figure #8)).
Figure #7:
Figure #8:
Keep in mind the order that things come apart. You will need to replace all of this once you have the new tire mounted.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)